Tuesday, January 16, 2018


ON SALE NOW!!!    
(everywhere and anywhere)


Some praise:

"The One True Barbecue is the whole hog of storytelling—sharp and witty prose, thoughtful interviews, and deep, humane insights into what makes these pitmasters cook." — Jami Attenberg, author of Saint Mazie

“With an anthropologist's eye and a glutton's appetite, Rien Fertel crisscrossed the American South on a pilgrimage to collect the wisdom of the great pitmasters, practitioners of the vanishing art of whole-hog barbecuing. Like all great food travelogues, you'll be tempted to consume this one in a single sitting." — Mark Adams, author of Turn Right at Machu Picchu

“I devoured this book the same way I do good barbecue—in one big sitting with enough left over for the next day. The One True Barbecue takes hog as its subject but is much more: history, sociology, race relations, economics,and land. Read this for a view into the South, then and now. It'll make your mouth water for more.” — Chris Offutt, author of My Father, the Pornographer

"Crackling with southern culture and history, Fertel's love for barbecue—from the pitmasters to the culinary traditions—is alive on every page. A joy to read and hog heaven for anyone who appreciates the nuances and delights of barbecue at its finest." — Gilbert King, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Devil in the Grove

"Some barbecue cooks who still cook whole hogs the old way are just stubbornly doing what their people have always done. Others have studied the tradition and are reviving it in unexpected places. Not surprisingly, all are interesting characters, as Rien Fertel shows us in this fascinating book. A superb documentarian with a wry sense of humor, Fertel also offers some thoughtful observations about authenticity, gentrification, and celebrity. This book should be read by anyone who thinks barbecue is about sticky red sauce." — John Shelton Reed, co-founder of The Campaign for Real Barbecue (TrueCue.org) and co-author of Holy Smoke: The Big Book of North Carolina Barbecue

"For anyone interested in the origins, history, methods and spectacle of whole-hog barbecue, this book is essential reading. And when Mr. Fertel says that “all barbecue writing is hyperbole,” he sets a standard that his writing wonderfully meets. Mr. Fertel leaves readers hungry not only for barbecue but also for the barbecue country he so engagingly maps." — The Wall Street Journal

"One Damn Good Book About American Barbecue." — Keith Pandolfi, Serious Eats

"Fertel’s book [is] devoted to underscoring the absolute impossibility of replicating the miracles that occur within the South’s most storied pits. . . . He's also a winning writer, blessed with the gift of being able to incorporate back stories and scenic details without making a fuss about it. He spends far more time in the company of people than food, but he’s good at conveying the joy of eating." — Hannah Raskin, Charleston Post and Courier

"A timely profile of what is arguably the oldest food tradition in existence. . . . It’s a book about food, sure, but it’s also about people and places and history — everything that makes barbecue what it is. And thanks in no small part to Fertel’s talent as a writer, it’s exceptionally readable. . . . The pitmasters and local legends he profiles — some of them, miraculously, alive; others long dead — jump off the page." — Deseret News

"It is the stories of the pit masters and their predecessors, told with a sympathetic and fastidious eye, that give this hog its wings." — Publishers Weekly

"Interweaving culinary and ethnographic history with vibrant character profiles and mouthwatering food writing, Fertel takes readers on an anthropological journey across back country roads and generations to unearth the rich legacy of this art." — Kirkus Reviews

Monday, November 12, 2012

Barbecue's "Golden Secret"




Melvin's  barbecue sandwich topped with the "golden secret" sauce. (Photo by Denny Culbert/ The Barbecue Bus) 


Bessinger, certainly the most famous surname in South Carolina barbecue. Mustard sauce, Piggy Park. Icons of South Carolina history and culture and Bessinger family inventions.

One of fourteen children born to Mack Bessinger, restaurant patriarch Joseph Jacob, was known as ‘Big Joe.’ He moved from the family farm near Orangeburg to open the Holly Hill CafĂ© in 1939. There, together with the Sweatman family, he concocted a mustard-based barbecue sauce, owning to their shared German roots. That “Golden Secret,” as the Bessingers call it, became the state’s signature sauce.

Melvin Bessinger, like most of his ten siblings, followed his father into the barbecue business. In 1961, with another brother, Melvin opened his first barbecue restaurant in west Charleston. Three decades later, Melvin split off to found his own barbecue joint. Today, third-generation barbecue entrepreneur, David Bessinger, maintains the Bessinger family tradition.

— Rien Fertel/ The Barbecue Bus




Melvin’s Legendary Bar-B-Q
538 Folly Road
Charleston, SC 29412
(843) 762-0511

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Thanksgiving Every Day of the Week

A sampling of the fare from the Brown's Bar-B-Q buffet in Kingstree, South Carolina. (photo by Denny Culbert/ The Barbecue Bus)



Thomas M. Brown, Jr. is a farmer. He plants soy, wheat, hay, and oats to sell on the market. Additionally, he grows corn, squash, zucchini, and broccoli, okra, butter beans, collards, and cabbage for his restaurant’s massive buffet line. At Brown’s Bar-B-Q, these fresh vegetables are served in season alongside pilau rice and white rice, macaroni, yams, barbecue chicken and fried chicken, barbecue turkey and baked turkey, barbecue ribs, smoked ham, potato salad, coleslaw, and, yes, chopped barbecue.   

A motorcycle accident left a teenage Thomas Brown with a broken leg. Confined to bed and with a hot plate set up within reach, he learned to cook for himself. In 1981, he started serving takeout plates—rice and gravy, yams, barbecue—from a window on the family farm. A decade later, he built the dining room, as large as the buffet table is long.

At Brown’s Bar-B-Q, dinner, or lunch, is like Thanksgiving eating enjoyed every day of the week. The fresh vegetables, the variety of meats; all the desserts that can’t fit on one plate. It’s hard to keep track of all the gravies.


— Rien Fertel/ The Barbecue Bus






809 Williamsburg County Highway  
Kingstree, SC 29556
(843) 382-2753

Monday, October 8, 2012

Rust Gravy in Orangeburg

Barbecue pork covered with Dukes' rust-colored sauce with slaw, crisp skin, and rust colored hash over rice. (Photo by Denny Culbert/ The Barbecue Bus)

At least a dozen barbecue establishments, covering nearly two-thirds of the State’s geography, operate under the Dukes name. Most South Carolinians across the Midlands and Lowlands claim a favorite. So, ask a local for directions to Dukes Bar-B-Que and you’re hazarding a geographic mixup.  

Earl Duke founded the original Dukes Bar-B-Que along Whitman Street in downtown Orangeburg. From their the dukedom spread, with family members and others opening locations. The first Dukes eventually passed to Harold Kittrell, formerly a carpenter, and then onto his son, Tony, the present manager/co-owner.

Dukes Bar-B-Que (note, never spelled Duke’s) still stocks a loaded buffet line with sides—green beans, baked beans, macaroni and cheese, slaw, potato salad, pickles, and bread—and the heavy hitters: rice, hash, barbecue chicken, fried chicken, and, of course, chopped shoulder and ham barbecue pork. The standout remains Earl Dukes’ sauce recipe: sweet, ketchup-based, thicker then most, and orange-yellow tinged, giving it a color and viscosity Tony Kittrell deems “rust gravy.”

— Rien Fertel/ The Barbecue Bus






1298 Whitman Street Southeast
Orangeburg, SC 29115
(803) 534-2916

Monday, October 1, 2012

Politics in the Pits

Smoke billows from the pits at Jackie Hite's Bar-B-Q. (Photo by Denny Culbert/ The Barbecue Bus)

Since 1966, James Lee “Jackie” Hite has served as the Fire Chief, Water Commissioner, a City Councilman, Magistrate, and Mayor (three terms) of Leesville, South Carolina. He also smokes barbecue. Thus he serves his people two ways, through politics and pork; “Once you been there,” Hite says “you can't get it out of your blood.”

He opened Jackie Hite’s Bar-B-Q, across the railroad tracks from town, in May 1979. He learned the trade from his father, a plumber, fisherman, and part-time barbecue man. During the annual Firemen’s Balls, while the people square danced in the streets, little Jackie would help his father with the hog smoking, staying up all night, watching, waiting, and doing what he was told. Today, the pigs are still hickory-smoked, the sauce, mustard and vinegar and pepper. 

He is 72 years old and underwent open heart surgery five years ago; his constituents are begging him to run for mayor again. He just might. As long as he doesn’t quit cooking barbecue.

— Rien Fertel/ The Barbecue Bus





460 East Railroad Avenue
Batesburg-Leesville, SC 29006
(803) 532-3354

Monday, September 24, 2012

Hash and Chicken Stew Capital of the World.

Sawdust covers the floor around the dining tables at Midway BBQ in Buffalo, South Carolina. (Photo by Denny Culbert/ The Barbecue Bus)


                
811 Hash Boulevard. If that ain’t the the actual address of Buffalo, South Carolina’s Midway BBQ, it might as well be. Established some time around 1941—the date is sketchy—founder Jack O’Dell was once one of nearly 50 Union County hash houses hurrying out the slow-cooked beef, butter, onion, salt and pepper stew. Today Midway BBQ is the only one remaining. 

Growing up in his family’s grocery, the future Hash King first garnered attention as a crackerjack cattle and hog grader and buyer. “When Jack O’Dell walked in the barn,” recounts son-in-law Jay Allen, Midway’s manager since 1994, “you knew the best cows and hogs were going home with him because he only bought the best.” Though O’Dell has long retired, livestock purchases continue to stock Midway’s full-service meat counter (in old-school butcher shop fashion, sawdust still covers the floor), emerge as the hickory-smoked shoulder and ham barbecue, and fill the three 100 gallon hash pots.  

“Without hash,” declares “barbecue science engineer” Allen, “we’re done. We’re closed.” Allen, husband of O’Dell’s daughter Amy, Midway’s present owner, says that though “BBQ” styles the business’s signage, the name should read Midway Hash (it should be noted that they also sell a hundred gallons a day of their superb creamy, spicy chicken stew on rainy days). Then naturally, when people ask where to find Midway BBQ, O’Dell responds: “811 Hash Boulevard.”

— Rien Fertel/ The Barbecue Bus






Midway BBQ
811 Main Street
Buffalo, SC 29321
(864) 427-4047

Tuesday, June 19, 2012

Learning from Mom: Levern Darby

Levern Darby at Cooper's Country Store, Salters, South Carolina. (photo by Denny Culbert/ The Barbecue Bus)
Women remain a rarity in professional barbecuedom, especially in the realm of whole-hog cookery. But Levern Darby learned from his mother, Naomi, who slaughtered hogs and sold the oak-smoked barbecue from the trunk of her car, outside of what would later be named Cooper's Country Store in Salters, SC. Darby has now worked at the Store going on 36 years. There he watches that the hogs are cooked right, the way Mom taught him.

Audio and Text by Rien Fertel
Click the play button below to listen to Levern. 



Levern Darby works in the kitchen at Cooper's Country Store, Salters, South Carolina. (photo by Denny Culbert/ The Barbecue Bus)
Barbecue cooked by Levern Darby at Cooper's Country Store, Salters, South Carolina. (photo by Denny Culbert/ The Barbecue Bus)

Saturday, June 16, 2012

The Cracklin' Sound: 'Little Joe' Brunson

Little Joe Brunson removes a piece of crispy pork skin from the pit at Sweatman's Bar-B-Que. (photo by Denny Culbert/ The Barbecue Bus)

Little Joe Brunson at Sweatman's Bar-B-Que. (photo by Denny Culbert/ The Barbecue Bus)
After taking the whole hogs off the pits at Sweatman's Bar-B-Que in Holly Hill, South Carolina, Jonathan 'Little Joe' Brunson smokes the remaining pork skins over oak and hickory coals to make what may be the South's most perfect cracklin'. Working at this barbecue institution for over thirty years, Little Joe can determine when the cracklins are done just by their sizzle.

Click the SoundCloud box below to hear Little Joe.

Audio editing and text by Rien Fertel/ The Barbecue Bus
 
Little Joe Brunson gathers a shovelful of wood coals for the pit. (photo by Denny Culbert/ The Barbecue Bus)


Wednesday, June 13, 2012

Put Temmerath: Midway BBQ's Secret Weapon

Put Temmerath at Midway BBQ in Buffalo, South Carolina. (photo by Denny Culbert/ The Barbecue Bus)

Put Temmerath, originally from Laos, has worked at Midway BBQ in Buffalo, SC for nearly sixteen years. His old friend, Midway manager Jay Allen, hired him to be the kitchen's jack of all trades. Put oversees the making of 100-gallon pots of hash, the prepping of smoked barbecue shoulders, and many of the restaurant's vegetable sides. Allen brags, "There's no eighteen or twenty-year-old here that can keep up with him." 

Click below to listen to Rien Fertel's interview with Put.


Tuesday, June 12, 2012

Daily Specials as Community Service

Jay Allen on the phone with radio personality Mike Stevens, Tuesday at Midway BBQ. Photo by Denny Culbert
Each morning at 11:05, "Barbecue Science Engineer" Jay Allen of Midway BBQ in Buffalo, SC reads the daily specials to radio personality Mike Stevens of WBCU 1460 AM and 103.5 FM. Union County citizens tune in to hear about the restaurant meets butcher's meat-and-three and cuts of the day. Listen to a warmup clip from June 12, 2002.

Click the Broadcastr link below to listen to the daily specials.
Audio recording and editing by Rien Fertel

Monday, June 11, 2012

On the Road Again: The South Carolina BBQ Trail.

Bum's Restaurant, Ayden, NC. Photo by Denny Culbert.


On Sunday, The Barbecue Bus (Denny Culbert and Rien Fertel) hit the road again to gather oral histories and photos for the Southern Foodways Alliance (SFA) and the University of Mississippi’s Center for the Study of Southern Culture. This trip: We document the pitmasters and barbecue institutions that are historically and socially significant to South Carolina’s culinary culture.

Our BBQ Trail itinerary will carry us through Upstate, the Lowlands, and Midlands of South Carolina. We’ll cover barbecue houses in all four of South Carolina’s sauce-varietal regions, from the mustard belt that extends through the State’s center toward Charleston, to the peppery vinegar country of the north-east coast, to the western tomato-based hinterlands. Additionally, we’ll explore the State’s diverse barbecue accoutrements, including hash, chicken stew, vegetable side-dishes, and desserts.

We’ll post interviews, photographs, and profiles here on The Barbecue Bus blog. More frequent updates from the road can be found @TheBarbecueBus. At the culmination of the trip, the oral histories will be added to the SFA’s online Southern BBQ Trail. The SFA’s oral history program, led by Amy Evans, has collected more than 600 oral histories across the South.

Since The Barbecue Bus completed the North Carolina BBQ Trail in November and December of last year, we’ve been very busy. Denny recently worked as the Official Photographer for Lafayette, Louisiana’s twenty-sixth annual Festival International de Louisiane. Rien began writing a column, Past & Repast, for the Oxford American online. Denny and Rien recently collaborated on two articles for The Local Palate magazine, one featuring the Zydeco musician Cedric Watson. And, on March 17th, Denny married his sweetheart Katie Frayard in a surprise garden ceremony, with Rien officiating.

Next week, The Barbecue Bus will assist in guiding the SFA’s (sold out!) High on the Hog Carolina Field Trip through eastern North Carolina. They’ll revisit some of their favorite personalities and pits from the area, including: James Henry Howell, pitmaster, and Samuel Jones, manager, of the Skylight Inn in Ayden; Bum and Larry Dennis of Bum’s Restaurant, also in Ayden; and the “Highly Seasoned Food” from Stephen and Gerri Grady of Grady’s Barbecue in Dudley.

Monday, June 4, 2012

"Highly Seasoned Food."



Stephen & Gerri Grady of Grady's Barbecue, Dudley, NC.

Click to see our original text and photo profile of the Gradys: http://www.thebarbecuebus.com/2011/12/gradys-barbecue-this-day-is-last-this.html

Recorded and cut by Rien Fertel. Shot and chopped by Denny Culbert.

"We Just Didn't Ever Stop."



Bum and Larry Dennis of Bum's Restaurant, Ayden, NC.

Click to see our original text and photo profile of Bum's: http://www.thebarbecuebus.com/2012/03/first-barbecue.html

Recorded and cut by Rien Fertel. Shot and chopped by Denny Culbert.

"Dad Put Barbecue Grease in My Milk Bottle."



Samuel Jones of Skylight Inn, Ayden, NC.

Click to see our original text and photo profile of Skylight Inn: http://www.thebarbecuebus.com/2012/03/standard-bearers-of-barbecue-skylight.html

Recorded and cut by Rien Fertel. Shot and chopped by Denny Culbert.

Bruce and Samuel Jones of Skylight Inn, Ayden, NC.

Friday, June 1, 2012

"It Goes Over Pretty Good."



Randy Russell of Bunn's Barbecue, Windsor, NC.

Click to see our original text and photo profile of Bunn's Barbecue: http://www.thebarbecuebus.com/2012/02/survivalist-cue-bunns-barbecue-windsor.html

Recorded and cut by Rien Fertel. Shot and chopped by Denny Culbert.

Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Wednesday, May 23, 2012

"The Right Niche."


Larry & Brandon Pierce of Nahunta Pork Center, Pikeville, NC.

Click here to see our original text and photo profile of Nahunta Pork Center: http://www.thebarbecuebus.com/2011/12/kings-of-pig-nahunta-pork-center.html

Recorded and cut by Rien Fertel. Shot and chopped by Denny Culbert.

Monday, May 21, 2012

"You Just Gotta Know that Smell."


Rudy Cobb of Jack Cobb & Son Barbecue Place, Farmville, NC.

Click here to see our original text and photo profile of Rudy Cobb: http://www.thebarbecuebus.com/2012/01/rudy-cobb-place-is-space.html

Recorded and cut by Rien Fertel. Shot and chopped by Denny Culbert.

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

Barbecue by Consensus.


William Morris, Jr. of Morris Barbeque, Hookerton, NC.

Click here to see our original text and photo profile of Morris Barbeque: http://www.thebarbecuebus.com/2011/12/saturday-in-pork.html

Recorded and cut by Rien Fertel. Shot and chopped by Denny Culbert.

Monday, May 14, 2012

"Lucky Enough to Be a Part of this Place."


Donald Williams & Kevin Lamm of Parker's Barbecue, Wilson, NC.

Click here to see our original text and photo profile of Parker's Barbecue: http://www.thebarbecuebus.com/2011/11/parkers-barbecue-wilson-nc.html

Recorded and cut by Rien Fertel. Shot and chopped by Denny Culbert.